Weinbach Alsace Colette Riesling 2021

Biodynamic. Primarily responsible for the Weinbach we know today, Catherine Faller’s mother, Colette Faller, was one of the legends of Alsatian wine. Sadly, Madame Faller passed away in early 2015 and, like her daughter Laurence and husband Théo before her, is now immortalised by a wine bearing her name.

This comes from 50-60-year-old vines in the Bonnes Terres terroir, lower down on the Schlossberg slope, where the soils are deeper and sandier. The fruit here also tends to be picked a touch later. Accordingly, the register of flavours here (running from white flowers through to tropical fruits and citrus fruit zest) is more intense, yet the wine balances its power with great freshness and verve. Even though it comes entirely from Schlossberg, some of the vines fall outside the Grand Cru boundary, which is why it cannot be labelled as a Grand Cru. The domaine has now applied for Premier Cru status. But no matter, it certainly offers Grand Cru quality in the glass.

Raised for 14 months in old oak casks, it’s statuesque and full of life, packed with the joie de vivre of citrus and stone fruits, salty minerals and a flicker of white flowers. The texture is generous yet stony and compact, and the palate glows with energy and tension with tingling rocky minerality and a nip of bite on the lingering, mouth-watering finish. It’s fabulous.