Champagne Laherte Frères Ultradition 1.5L MAGNUM NV Base 16. Disg. Jan 2018

Ultradition in magnum is Laherte Frères' Meunier-led house blend in the 1.5-litre format, based on the 2016 harvest.

The cuvée is roughly sixty per cent Pinot Meunier with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir making up the rest, and around forty per cent of the blend is reserve wine, which is what holds its character steady from one base year to the next. Aurélien Laherte draws the fruit from parcels around Chavot in the Coteaux Sud d'Épernay, part of the ten hectares and seventy-five parcels the family farms across ten villages using biodynamic preparations, plant infusions and cover crops. Pressing and fermentation are done parcel by parcel on indigenous yeasts, mostly in neutral Burgundian barrels with some foudre and tank. The wine rests on lees well beyond the required minimum and is disgorged with a low dosage; the base year and disgorgement date are printed on every bottle. Magnums generally hold their freshness longer.

A format for a table rather than a glass, and worth cellaring. Serve at around 8°C with roast chicken, charcuterie or a mushroom risotto.