Champagne Pascal Agrapart Grand Cru Vénus Blanc de Blancs 2019 Disg. Jun 25

Champagne Pascal Agrapart Grand Cru Vénus Blanc de Blancs comes from a third of a hectare of 1959-planted vines in the Avize lieu-dit La Fosse aux Pourceaux.

The parcel lies on the chalkiest part of the slope near the village of Avize, in contrast to the more clay-rich ground behind the estate's Avizoise cuvée. At 0.3 hectares and with vines planted in 1959, extremely old by Champagne standards, quantities are tiny each year. The name honours Vénus, the Boulonnais mare that first ploughed the vineyard; horse ploughing is still used here, and the wine is bottled without any dosage. Compared with Avizoise, Vénus carries more depth, grip and phenolic power, while keeping the finesse and mineral intensity that come from the chalk. Agrapart's approach across the range favours barrel fermentation, minimal handling and long lees ageing, with the vineyard rather than the cellar setting the character.

Worth decanting when young and better again after two or three years; treat it as a white wine at the table with roast fish or poultry, in Burgundy glasses at about 8°C.

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