Lethbridge Vin Jaune Yellow NV

Lethbridge Vin Jaune Yellow is an oxidative, flor-aged white made from Geelong Savagnin.

Seven years went into this, and the model is the yellow wine of the Jura. Grapes were whole-bunch pressed and fermented in barrel, and afterwards the barrels were deliberately left with ullage so a film of flor yeast could form on the surface. Over time that flor consumed alcohol and nutrients and built layers of nut and lemon-zest complexity, while slow oxidation added walnut, almond and mushroom. The blend draws mainly on 2013, 2014 and 2015, so there is youthful brightness holding up the nutty depth. Ray Nadeson has made a great many unusual wines; this is the most unusual of them.

Bone-dry and deeply savoury, with walnut, almond skin, curry leaf and preserved lemon, and a long, dry, faintly salty finish. Serve at 13 to 14 degrees in a small glass. It belongs with aged hard cheese, a Comté souffle, or chicken in cream and morels.