Nadeson Collis Coda NV

Nadeson Collis Coda is a zero-dosage sparkling wine made at Lethbridge in Geelong, drawn from a perpetual blend started in 2003.

The solera began by accident. Ray Nadeson and Maree Collis set aside some Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the cold Doeven site at Drumborg in 2003, then kept adding to that base wine year after year, and what started as an experiment has become their sparkling flagship and one of the more singular wines made in Australia. The blend now runs more than twenty years deep, mostly Chardonnay, with smaller measures of Meunier, Gris and Pinot Noir. Each draw-off yields about 300 bottles, which then spend two more years on lees before disgorgement with no dosage at all. Nadeson sees no point in long bottle age here: the work, he says, was done in barrel.

Deeply savoury and bone-dry, with roasted nut, dried apple, bread crust and a fine, persistent bead. It tastes older than it looks and finishes very long. Serve at 8 to 10 degrees, in a white wine glass. Match it with oysters, aged Comté or roast chicken.