Nadeson Collis Inception NV

Nadeson Collis Inception is a Chardonnay-dominant sparkling wine with a low dosage, made at Lethbridge, Victoria, from cold Henty fruit.

Champagne's Côte des Bar is the reference: Ray Nadeson sees a likeness between those richer wines and what Jack and Lois Doeven's Drumborg vineyard gives, very cold and low-yielding on schist. As the name suggests, this is the entry point to the range, 89 per cent Chardonnay from 2020, with the remaining tenth drawn from the twenty-year-old perpetual blend, which itself holds a little Pinot Noir and Gris off the Doeven vines plus some Meunier from another cold Drumborg site. Whole bunches go to the press, and fermentation runs naturally in barrique and foudre, matures in wood until June 2021, then rests on lees in bottle until disgorgement in August 2023 at 1.5 grams of dosage.

Rich for a low-dosage wine, with baked apple, hazelnut and citrus over a fine, insistent bead and a dry, chalky close. Serve at 8 to 10 degrees. Good with oysters, tempura, roast chicken or a piece of aged cheddar.