Théo Dancer Vin de France Jurassique Savagnin 2023

Théo Dancer Vin de France Jurassique Savagnin is made ouillé, topped up throughout ageing, so it carries no flor character at all.

Dancer sources this Savagnin from a conscientious farmer at Rotalier, in the southern Jura, the same village as Ganevat and Julien Labet. The vines sit on chalky clay over a Bajocian limestone subsoil, which is the geological continuation of the ground he knows from Burgundy. Savagnin in the Jura is often raised under a veil of yeast to give the oxidative, nutty style the region is known for, but Dancer wants purity and site expression instead. The fruit is therefore pressed directly to large oak barrels, left without racking until fermentation has finished, and the barrels are kept topped up for the duration of maturation. Bottled as Vin de France, it is a Burgundy grower’s reading of the Jura: citrusy and tightly wound with some powdery grip, and plenty of drive and length.

Best from now to about eight years; do not serve it too cold, and decant if young. Serve at 10-12°C with roast chicken, gruyère tart or river fish.

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